thank you

I have been getting several questions about the PIN 27 adapter board when using the Creality 4.2.2 and 4.2.7 boards. You do NOT need the adapter board if you have the newer 32 bit Creality motherboard. Below is an example connection of BLTouch if you have these boards.

Board-----BLTouch wires
G---------Green----Servo
V---------Red------Servo
IN--------Yellow---Servo
G---------White----Probe (if it doesn't work, try to swap with Black)
OUT-------Black----Probe (if you are using Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 17, if you don't, please just uncomment Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN as above)

Items needed: Measuring tape, Calipers, Engineer Scale or etc

The extruder, quickly explained, is a spring, a tooth nut, a motor and a tube. The filament enters the frame and gets moved through the tube by a motor with a tooth nut on it. When you calibrate your extruder, what you actually do is check to see if the motor moves the filament 100mm when you tell it to. Spoiler alert: I have never heard of an Ender 3 with a perfectly calibrated extruder right out of the box. If the motor does NOT move the right amount of filament, you get under extrusion or over extrusion. This is where too little or too much plastic is pushed through. Both can cause issues.

Shortly summed up, you take the tube off at the hotend side of the printer by unscrewing your tube fitting. Then you run filament through the tube and cut it right by the fitting. Then you connect your printer and do the following:

1) Connect to the printer with a terminal. This can be Pronterface; Or if you run Octoprint, the Octopi page has a terminal built in

2) Set extruder to relative by entering M83

3) Heat up your hot-end. This is because you can't extrude cold. Set the hot-end to 200 degrees, make sure the tube is pointing away from the hot-end

4) Tell the extruder to extrude 100mm of filament over 100 seconds. You do this by entering G1 E100 F100 in the terminal

5) Measure how much the extruder actually moved out of the tube. Repeat 3 times and find the medium value(for instance if I measure 97, 99 and 98, then I assume 98 because it's the middle value)

6) If you extrude below 100, you are under-extruding. If you extrude over, you are over-extruding. Let's say you get a value of 98, you are under-extruding by 2%. So now you need to find your original ESteps value. Do that by sending M503 in the console. You get a line back that looks something like this: Recv: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E94.96 The value you look at is M92 E. In this case, mine says E94.96. This means that on 100mm, it takes E100 steps, so 94.96100 steps = 9496 steps in my case.

You now know your steps and how much you are under-extruding. So you just divide steps with percentage you are extruding(ESteps/Extruded amount), in this case 9496/98. This means my new esteps value will be 96.897(96.90 to round up, max 2 decimals). So now I just send M92 E96.90 to my printer and save to EEPROM(M500). If you use stock firmware then you don't have an EEPROM so you have to add the M92 value to Cura startup code

Test that your extruder extrudes exactly 100mm into free air. If not, do it again, you probably measured wrong

You should only need to calibrate your extruder motor once - but if you ever mess with your extruder(like take off the motor, change out the frame, change the nut and so on and so on, you should run a calibration again to make sure it's still calibrated.

Flow rate calibration

Items needed: Digital caliper

Note: If you do not have a digital caliper, you can't really calibrate flow. But fret not! You can get a good result by going back to extruder calibration, but instead of calibrating through free air, you calibrate through the nozzle. But if you do it like that, you have to re-calibrate your extruder every time you use a different filament. So if you have a digital caliper, free air extruder and then flow calibration are the better choices

This is equally as important as Extruder calibration. Quickly summed up, what you do here is calculate a multiplier for the ESteps for your specific filament. Your extruder is calibrated, great! Except it's calibrated into thin air. What do, what do? 9/10 times you won't extrude the right amount after calibrating your extruder. This is because free air has no resistance at all, but your nozzle does. So your extruder will have to put a different amount of work in for different filament types. This is called your flow rate. You need to calibrate your flow rate for every type of material(one for PrimaCreator EasyPrint PLA, another for PrimaCreator EasyPrint PETG, another for Hatchbox PLA, another for Hatchbox PETG and so on and so on). But theoretically you only need to calibrate it once per filament type.

What you do is the following:

1) Load in a 25mm cube in your slicer. You can make one in a program of your choice or you can just find one on Thingiverse

2) Set it to print only ONE WALL - you go to Shell, and where it says number of walls, put 1. Then you set top and bottom layers to 0, infill to 0% and look for a box named "Alternate extra wall" and tick that off. I like to turn on adhesion because keeping a 1-wall print on your bed is not an easy thing. REMEMBER to set your flow rate to 100%, otherwise it will be difficult to calculate later

3) Then you go ahead and print your 25mm cube with only 1 wall. What you're aiming for is to get a wall thickness that is exactly equal to your line width in your slicer. I will use my settings again to demonstrate. I use a 0.4mm nozzle, and my line width is set to 0.4mm. So ideally my 1-wall cube should have walls that are 0.4mm thick. If they are not, this is where you calibrate.

4) Let's say I printed my cube. But my walls came out measuring only 0.37 but I aimed for 0.4. Then you calculate using that. The formula is Expected wall/actual wall=flow. In this case, 0.4/0.37=1.08(108%)

5) Print another 1-wall cube with your new flow(in my case 108% flow) and measure your walls. If your walls don't match your line width then you measured or calculated wrong

The flow is now calibrated, you just add it to your material profile as your new flow rate. Do this for every new type or brand of filament

Note: If you re-calibrate your extruder, you need to re-calibrate flow rate for your materials too. Luckily you should rarely, if ever, have to re-calibrate your extruder so it shouldn't ever be an issue.

!!!!The two above calibrations are IMPORTANT to make as they are essential to getting strong prints with the right amount of material and proper bonding. !!!!

Original Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/wiki/calibration

New to 3d printing. My printer was working great, printing tons of things with my son. I upgraded the Motherboard to the SKR Mini E3 V2 and it worked even better..

Then I got a Genuine BLtouch V3.1 and I cannot print. Ive download tons of Marlin files and even used this https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/h8y1ia/marlin_20x_guide_skr_mini_e3_v20_ender_3/

a couple of times.

1) I cannot get the VSCode to upload

2) when it was printing it was pringing off the front of the bed

3) when I use pronterface "TMC connection Error"

4) if I autohome the extruder shoots to the right and makes a horrible noise.

I recently got rid of the springs and use silicone bushings

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3148733

is the Mount Im using for the BLtouch.

if anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it!!

Let me know and I can send you the VSCode I'm using, well not working..

^{Use this guide with other marlin versions at your own risk.}

1. Getting started

2. Essential changes

3. PID autotune

4. Auto Bed Leveling

5. Manual Mesh Bed Leveling

6. Filament Runout Sensor/Detection and Filament Change

7. Linear Advance

8. All in one Retraction testing

9. Compiling firmware

10. Flashing firmware

11. Updating/Reflashing firmware

12. Printable Direct Drive mod

13. SKR Mini E3 v1.2, v1.2 guide

14. Changelog

1. Install VSCode and Git GUI according to this Installation guide

2. Open Marlin in VSCode as it is in this Comment

   1. (You can choose the marlin version at the bottom left corner of the window, the default is the latest 2.0.x)

3. Modify your Marlin based on this guide

   1. (Not necessary step / Use it at your own risk) Optionally you can use the marlin example file for this board. (config/examples/Creality/Ender-3/BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 2.0/)

Teaching Tech - Beginner guide to editing Marlin firmware - step by step

E - Enable | C - Change | E&C - Enable and Change | D - Disable

Enable/Disable by deleting/placing // at the start of a line.

Essential / useful changes to platformio.ini, Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h files in /Marlin folder.

• C default_envs = STM32F103RC_btt_512K

• E SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN

• E CUSTOM_STATUS_SCREEN_IMAGE

  • (Copy _Bootscreen.h / _Statusscreen.h file from Marlin\config\examples\Creality\Ender-3\ to Marlin\Marlin folder)

  • Download it from the Marlin GitHub.

• C SERIAL_PORT 2

• E SERIAL_PORT_2 -1

• C BAUDRATE 115200

  • (BTT default baudrate)

• C MOTHERBOARD BOARD_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_V2_0

• E&C CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME "Ender-3"

• C TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

• C BED_MAXTEMP 125

  • (By setting it to 70 for a magnetic bed that works up to 70 °C, marlin will only let it heat up to 60, for safety reasons)

• C DEFAULT_Kp 21.73

• C DEFAULT_Ki 1.54

• C DEFAULT_Kd 76.55

  • (PID autotune for faster heating and more stable temperature)

• E PIDTEMPBED

  • (You don't need to enable PIDTEMPBED, if you are satisfied with your heated bed, but by calibrating the heated bed, it could heat up faster and maintain temperature more accurately)

  • (Be sure to do a PID autotune for your heated bed after you enabled it in your firmware, otherwise it will trigger Thermal Runaway Protection when heating up the bed. You can find the guide under the PID autotune section, later in this post)

• C EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 200

  • (Or measure the length from the extruder gear to the nozzle through the PTFE tube)

• E&C X_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209

• E&C Y_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209

• E&C Z_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209

• E&C E0_DRIVER_TYPE TMC2209

• C DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 }

• C DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 500, 500, 20, 120 }

• C DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500

• C DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 500

• C DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 500

• E CLASSIC_JERK

• E&C TRAVEL_EXTRA_XYJERK 5.0

• C DEFAULT_EJERK 15.0

• D S_CURVE_ACCELERATION

  • (Enable if you don't use Linear Advance. LIN_ADVANCE and S_CURVE_ACCELERATION may not play well together)

• C INVERT_X_DIR true

• C INVERT_E0_DIR true

• C X_BED_SIZE 235

• C Y_BED_SIZE 235

• C Z_MAX_POS 250

• E LEVEL_BED_CORNERS

• C LEVEL_CORNERS_HEIGHT 0.1

  • (Set it to the thickness (mm) of the paper/credit card/feeler gauge you want to use)

• C HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)

• E EEPROM_SETTINGS

• E EEPROM_AUTO_INIT

• E NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE

• D DISPLAY_CHARSET_HD44780

• E SDSUPPORT

• E CR10_STOCKDISPLAY

• E FAN_SOFT_PWM

• E HOTEND_IDLE_TIMEOUT

• E USE_CONTROLLER_FAN

• E&C CONTROLLER_FAN_PIN PC7

• E CONTROLLER_FAN_EDITABLE

• C HOMING_BUMP_MM      { 5, 5, 2 }

• E QUICK_HOME

• C SLOWDOWN_DIVISOR 8

• D ADAPTIVE_STEP_SMOOTHING

• E STATUS_MESSAGE_SCROLLING

• E SHOW_REMAINING_TIME

• E USE_M73_REMAINING_TIME

• E ROTATE_PROGRESS_DISPLAY

• E PRINT_PROGRESS_SHOW_DECIMALS

• E SCROLL_LONG_FILENAMES

• E&C SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD

• E STATUS_HEAT_PERCENT

• E LIN_ADVANCE

  • (Disable S-Curve Acc. if you want to use LA. LIN_ADVANCE and S_CURVE_ACCELERATION may not play well together)

• C LIN_ADVANCE_K 0.00

  • (You can find guide links to calibrate your K value under the Linear Advance section, later in this post)

• E EMERGENCY_PARSER

• C X_CURRENT 580

• C Y_CURRENT 580

• C Z_CURRENT 580

• C E0_CURRENT 650

• C Y_SLAVE_ADDRESS 2

• C Z_SLAVE_ADDRESS 1

• C E0_SLAVE_ADDRESS 3

• C CHOPPER_TIMING CHOPPER_DEFAULT_24V

• D HYBRID_THRESHOLD

• E SQUARE_WAVE_STEPPING

• E CANCEL_OBJECTS

(Use this if you don't have a bed leveling sensor, e.g. BLTouch)

Configuration.h

• E PROBE_MANUALLY

• E MANUAL_PROBE_START_Z

• C NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 0, 0, 0 }

• E MESH_BED_LEVELING

• E RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28

• C GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 5 (Or change it accordingly to your needs)

• E LCD_BED_LEVELING

Leveling:

Heat up your bed to the temperature you usually print on (e.g. 60°C) (Make sure that there are no plastic on the nozzle, that would alter the nozzles distance to the bed)

1. Select: Motion - Bed Leveling - Level Bed

2. Wait for Homing XYZ to complete

3. When Click to Begin appears, press the controller button to move to the first point

4. Use the controller wheel to adjust Z so that a piece of paper can just pass under the nozzle

5. Press the controller button to save the Z value and move to the next point

6. Repeat steps 4-5 until completed

7. Select: Configuration - Store settings to save the mesh to the EEPROM

8. Select: Motion - Fade height: Set it to 10

9. Select: Motion - Store settings

10. Make a test print, and as it prints you can change the nozzle distance to the bed in Motion - Bed Z with the controller wheel

11. Select: Configuration - Store settings

• Marlin Bed Leveling (Manual)

• Teaching Tech Manual Mesh Bed Levelling

• Crosslink Ender 3 Mesh Bed Leveling

E0-STOP (PC15)

Configuration.h

• E FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR

• E&C FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 5

• C EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH 100

  • (Length from the extruder gear to the nozzle + 10)

• E NOZZLE_PARK_FEATURE

• C NOZZLE_PARK_Z_FEEDRATE 3

Configuration_adv.h

• E ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE

• C PAUSE_PARK_RETRACT_FEEDRATE 30

  • (Change it to your retraction speed)

• C PAUSE_PARK_RETRACT_LENGTH 6

  • (Change it to your retraction length)

• C FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_LENGTH 100

  • (Length from the extruder gear to the nozzle OR set it to 0 for manual filament extraction)

  • (This needs to be less than or equal to EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH)

• C FILAMENT_CHANGE_FAST_LOAD_LENGTH 0

  • (Length from the extruder gear to the nozzle OR set it to 0 for manual filament insertion)

  • (This needs to be less than or equal to EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH)

• E ADVANCED_PAUSE_CONTINUOUS_PURGE

• C FILAMENT_CHANGE_ALERT_BEEPS 10

  • (10 might be too much/annoying, if so, lower it to your liking)

• E PARK_HEAD_ON_PAUSE

• E FILAMENT_LOAD_UNLOAD_GCODES

  • (Adds M701/M702 Load/Unload G-code, and Load/Unload in the LCD Prepare menu.)

Teaching Tech

• DIY filament runout sensor + M600 colour changing

• SKR mini E3 V2.0 guide

Chris Riley

• Marlin Filament Change M600

• Filament Runout Sensor

Crosslink

• Marlin 2.0 M600 Filament change setup explained

• Linear Advance K-factor Calibration

• Teaching Tech Linear advance video guide

• Chris Riley Linear advance video guide

KARL JOHNSON

• How to Easily Calibrate Retraction in 3D Printers

• 3D Printer Retraction Calibration Vol II – Calibration Generator Program Release

Use VSCode with the PlatformIO extension and Git GUI.

• Chris Riley

  • VSCode installation guide for Marlin 2.0.

You can find the firmware file in .pio/build/STM32F103RC_btt_512K/firmware.bin

Place the firmware.bin file onto your SD card, them insert it into your printer and turn it on. After a short 20-30 sec blank screen your printer should be ready.

• FusionSource - 3D Printing - BIGTREETECH SKR MINI | Firmware Update| THE EASY WAY

If after ~50-60 sec there is still a blank screen, don't worry, just turn off your printer. A long blank screen could mean that the firmware you just tried is bad in some way. You should recheck your configurations, then try reflashing it. Comment.

(Comment) You don't need to redo all the changes every time you want to update to a newer version of marlin, just copy your edited files to the new marlin and compare them in VSC Source Control (Ctrl+Shift+G), and copy anything that is new or changed.

Not all changes will be applied on a firmware update. For that you will need to reset your printer settings by Restore Defaults (M502) in menu - Configuration, then Save Settings (M500). It will reset your settings back to your edited firmware values.

Printable Direct Drive extruder mount for Ender 3, Ender 5, CR-10 etc.

• 07.03.

  • + ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE (18526)

• 07.12.

  • Follow this comment if you are experiencing freezing mid print.

• 07.13.

  • + Teaching Tech - Beginner guide to editing Marlin firmware - step by step

• 07.15.

  • Disable ADAPTIVE_STEP_SMOOTHING Comment

• 07.17.

  • Changed FAN1_PIN to PC7

• 07.27.

  • Changed from Junction Deviation to Classic Jerk

  • Updated to Marlin 2.0.6

  • + ASSISTED_TRAMMING (G35)

  • - BLOCK_BUFFER_SIZE, BUFSIZE, TX_BUFFER_SIZE. (PR)

• 07.28.

  • Updated ASSISTED_TRAMMING

• 07.29.

  • Mesh bed leveling clarification.

  • + TRAMMING_SCREW_THREAD

• 08.03.

  • Moved ABL section to an external guide

• 08.28.

  • Updated to 2.0.6.1 -> You most likely need to update your configs

  • - MANUAL_FEEDRATE

• 08.31.

  • - MONITOR_DRIVER_STATUS

• 09.10.

  • - HOME_BEFORE_FILAMENT_CHANGE

• 09.29.

  • Updated to 2.0.7 -> You most likely need to update your configs

  • + EMERGENCY_PARSER

• 10.10.

  • Updated to 2.0.7.1, No changes needed.

• 10.28.

  • + MANUAL_PROBE_START_Z

You can tip the author here

Original Post from here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/h8y1ia/marlin_20x_guide_skr_mini_e3_v20_ender_3/

https://github.com/Gurgz/marlin-2.0---gurgzzz-edition

above I have linked my version of Marlin 2.0

I enabled a 4x4 double probe grid for BLtouch uses following parameters to install BLtouch #define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN

Linear Advanced is now enabled, I have my value set to a K1.0 but feel free to adjust it, because now you can. BigTreeTech disabled linear advanced because it doesn't work with Junction Deviation

I changed junction deviation to Jerk, because Jerk is tried and true. also it plays nice with linear advanced.

Retraction rates are now 3.5mm at 37mm/sec

not much else was changed, this works for me. please follow TeachingTech's github on how to dial in your printer. with my Marlin profile you should be able to change all values that he recommends. i had issues with the firmware provided by bigtreetech with is what prompted me to compile my own version.

you can see my results on removed link ;utm_medium=web2x&context=3" target="true">Reddit

My ender 3 is direct driven, running SpeedDrive V2 (PETG but will be making an ABS one now) with the BMG clone and pancake stepper to save all my X axis space.

Anyway.. even though im on stock hotend I figured the capricorn will be OK for a little while and the printer is in my garage with multiple fans running so fumes will be minimal. It's working great so far and the prints do look amazing compared to some PETG prints I've made.

Settings in Cura & PrusaSlicer are nearly the same:

Hotend: 240

Bed: 110

Speed: 50mm/s

Fan: Off except on bridges

Infill: Gyroid 25-50%

Linear Advance: 0.06

Flow: 100% (Generally at 89 on PLA)

This is to encourage you to try ABS, I used Sunlu ABS and I am happy with results. Just ensure your in well ventilated area and keep pets away as they're very inclined to react to the tube fumes.

Initially I decided to use Linear Advance by itself, and to enable this option you first need to make sure that you have calibrated your Extruder E-Steps properly, and that the rest of your printer is running in a satisfactory manner. Linear advance will not help issues that are already present, but it can help you speed up your printing and decrease stringing on a well tuned printer.

If you have TH3D Firmware
If you are using TH3D Firmware as suggested on other posts from Print3D.world then enabling the Linear Advance option is quite simple. Open the Arduino IDE in your Firmware Folders, and ensure you have the TH3D configuration open. Open the configuration tab, and either use the “Search/Find Function” or scroll to the bottom of the configuration until you have found ” #define LinearAdvance ” options. You will remove the // in front of the settings, and I recommend leaving the K value at 0.

If you have Marlin Bugfix Firmware
Open your Arduino IDE, and choose the Configuration tab. Use the “Search/Find” function and look for “Linear Advance”. You will see an option that looks like “//#define linearadvance” and you will remove the two “//” in front of it. Below this option you will see an area to set your K value/factor. Leave it at 0, we will set this up in the Start GCode later.

Upload the firmware
Once you have enabled the firmware, you will need to go through your regular routine of uploading it to the printer. I always make sure I run these two G codes after I upload new firmware to ensure the flash memory has been reset and updated as well. Use your octoprint, or pronterface console and send the following two G-codes from the command line.

M502

M500

Calibrating your Linear Advance K factor
Once you have enabled the linear advance option in your configuration, and uploaded the new firmware you will have to run the K factor calibration tool and find the value at which you will use to print. This tool is helpful, and you may need to run it when you swap material types (PLA to PETG, or ABS etc). Follow the link below, and use the settings that I have listed below for your Ender 3. Don’t forget to choose the Auto Bed Leveling option box if you have ABL, otherwise don’t.

http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html

Determining your best K value
Once you have generated the K factor calibration test, and run the print you will see some of the lines may have printed well, and some may have done bad. The point of this test is to get the most consistent line over the slow and high speeds. You should look over your lines and determine which one is the most consistent. If there is a value that is very close, but could use some more tweaking: modify the linear advance calibration pattern again but change the options to start below the setting you think looked best, and end just after it with a 0.05 increment. (Example: Start @ 0.40 End @ 0.60 with a 0.05 increment). Choose the best K value for your printer and material, and make sure you make a note of it.

Changing your Start G-Code to use K Value
Now that you have your new K value, you will want to use it when you are starting a new print. You will add the following line to your Start G-Code in Cura, where 0.00 should be replaced with your new K value.

M900 K0.00

Increase the Print Speeds incrementally and start testing! It’s time to see if your new linear advance setup will print just as good at a faster rate, later we will talk about getting more speed by increasing firmware default accelerations and max feed rates. With our Ender 3 running on Linear Advance we have successfully printed up to 90mm/s with fairly simple prints. 60mm/s is a walk in the park now!

• 5015 Fan(s)
• Hero Me 2 Base, 5015 Fan(s) Duct, and the Base_Lock or Auto Bed Leveling Mount of your choice
• Soldering Iron & Heatshrink -OR- Crimp butt connectors 26ga

Once you are happy with your Hero Me 2 mount, you can move on to ordering the fans you need for the mount that you printed out. You could also order these ahead of time, but it’s not much use if you cannot get the mount to print properly. I purchased a two pack to have a spare for the future, or if I decided to upgrade to dual 5015 fans. Below is a link to the two pack 24V fans.

Once your fans have arrived and you are ready to make your installation, you will disable the printer by turning off power. Disassemble your hot-end fan shroud by removing the 4 bolts in the part cooling fan, and then you remove the two round head bolts holding the fan shroud to the gantry. Once the cover is loose, you will need to remove the 4 bolts inside the hot end shroud to take the hot-end fan loose.

Next you will have to install the Hero Me 2 base piece (make sure your base lock or ABL mount is in place), it will slide down over your gantry mount plate, make sure you are careful of your wiring. Once the base is mounted, you can install your hot-end fan to the base with your 4 bolts. One hint I will share is to improve the strength of your strain relief for your wiring is to find a small piece of hose that is close to the size of your wires, cut a slit in it and put around the wires before you zip-tie them like below. This will prevent your wires from spinning in the strain relief.

Now you will have to decide if you are going to remove all the shielding from your cables and lengthen the 5015 fan cables, or take the easier route and cut the yellow and blue wires near the old fan. I cut the yellow, and the blue and decided to solder the wires together and heatshrink them leaving just a small amount of slack in the wires (2″ roughly). I installed the 5015 fan with some M3 bolts, and began my test prints. I will say that some profiles will take some tweaking to get back printing, I had to adjust how soon the fan went to maximum and I also reduced the maximum. I will share my Cura cooling profile below for you to try if you are running into problems.

Regular Fan Speed: 90%

Maximum Fan Speed: 95%

Regular/Max Threshold: 10s

Initial Fan Speed: 0%

Regular Speed @ Layer # 4

Minimum Layer Time: 10 s

Minimum Speed: 10 mm/s

Have questions, or problems with your upgrade? Leave a comment and we will get back to you!