Initial calibrations have been going well (extruder, first layer, a few calibration cubes), but as I am dialing in the Steps/mm for the X/Y/Z axes, the probe is attempting to probe points extremely close to, and now off the edge of the bed.

The latest attempt resulted in the gantry crashing into the front rails of the frame as it attempted to probe the final 4 points, almost like the print bed size is set incorrectly. The firmware for the CRTouch was obtained from Crealitiy's website, but my research is beginning to show that their firmware is pretty bad.

I appreciate any help you can provide, as I would like to print something besides paper thin plastic sheets and cubes.

I’m relatively new to 3d printing. Started out with a secondhand Tevo Tornado, which developed shifting in one axis. After a steep learning curve, a bit of cash, and much frustration, I have chosen to buy a Creality Ender 5 Pro, and haven’t looked back since. 

After putting about 3kgs of PLA through it, using the standard out of the box configuration it failed on the X axis. Found that the connection on the stepper was to blame, so I’ve replaced the motor and the cable, and now I’m back to printing. 

This morning I’ve woken up to a horrible noise coming from the hot end. The smaller cooling fan has failed a bearing. I am having trouble finding the correct replacement part. Everything I am finding is listed for the 5 Plus variant or other Creality printers. 

Does anyone know if any of the other variant fans will fit, or where to find the correct part?

Many thanks,

Horn20  

If you have EVA 2.4.2 on your Ender 5 and want to save some space or upgrade to the latest EVA, try this back plate out and let me know how it works.

https://print3d.world/bfd_download/ender-5-eva-2-4-2-flat-back-plate/

Wanted to write a quick post about my progress with the Ender 5 on Linear Rails. I have the PrinterMods.com Linear Rail kit for X and Y axis, as well as the MDD direct drive plate. Recently I took the time to tune my printer for 100mm/s printing. I wanted to share some tips and tricks to achieve this, and still maintain great quality.

The main aspect is to enable Linear Advance within Marlin firmware. Once you have this enabled, and tuned properly you will need to do several other calibrations to achieve higher speeds. The linear rails made a huge difference in the amount of speed we can really use.

Once you have the Linear Advance tuned properly (see the Marlin linear advance page for how-to do this properly) you will need to follow Teaching Tech's calibrations for Steps/MM and Acceleration. Link is here: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Here are the steps I took to get the highest quality, at 100mm/s or better.

1. PrinterMods.com Linear Rails, Direct Drive MDD kit, HeroMe Gen5 with single 5015 (Dual Recommended)
2. Latest Marlin Firmware with Linear Advance enabled, ensure proper stepper motor currents for your drivers and motors.
3. Calibrate E-Steps for Extruder (Ensure you have Part-Cooling Fan on while doing this, I found it makes a difference of several steps/mm)
4. PID Tuning Hot-End and Bed if enabled in firmware(When PID tuning hot-end, use G-Code to turn fan on 100%)
5. Calibrate Acceleration
6. Calibrate Flow Rate
7. Test Prints at 75mm/s, 85mm/s, then 100mm/s. I currently use 100mm/s Print and Infill speed with 85mm/s Wall and Top/Bottom speed. My travel is set for 350mm/s and Retraction is 65mm/s @ 1.5mm

If you are also trying to achieve this or are stuck in progress, leave a reply and let's consult!

Original Link: https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5/comments/goygbl/getting_started_with_the_ender_55_pro/

With the sheer number of posts on this sub regarding issues right after assembly of the Ender 5/5 Pro I thought it would be nice to consolidate some "getting started" knowledge. I will attempt to update and add more information as different issues come up and get resolved.

This guide is laid out in what I hope is the best order to accomplish these steps. I am assuming that you are familiar with the 3D printing toolchain and know what a slicer is and how to send a model to the printer (USB or SD Card).

This post is geared mainly at hardware. There are hundreds of different slicer settings that can greatly affect print quality. I won't be going into those except to touch on retraction, flow/extrusion multiplier, and temperature.

Feel free to let me know your thoughts and changes that need to be made. Thanks!

Setting up the Ender 5 / 5 Pro:

The instructions for assembly that come with the Ender 5 are decent but still leave a little bit of room for confusion. If you are having trouble with assembly check out this video:

How to Build and Use a Creality Ender 5 - 3D Printing Canadabe

Hopefully, once you are done with this video the Ender 5 is fully assembled and maybe even ready to print. But, we'll just go with assembled here.

Level the Bed (Manually)

You must manually level the bed. It is tedious, but it must be done. If you don't get this step right, you will be fighting your printer every time you try to print. The Ender leveling system is not very good so you must ensure you check the level multiple times before calling this step complete.

Here is a bed leveling tutorial from Matterhackers. They use their software, but you can just use the printer control panel to move the head.

Bed Leveling Tutorial from DrVax

CHEPs Bed Leveling - shown on an Ender 3 but the lines he uses about halfway through are golden to use when checking/adjusting level.

If you are into a little more tinkering, try out manual mesh leveling. It will require you to flash a new firmware, but it is by far the best way to level the bed (after you have initially done the manual level). If you have an Ender 5 pro or a silent board it should already have the bootloader.

If you are experiencing a problem where the bed seems loose or keeps coming out of level after each print, try tightening the adjustment screws down a fair amount, re-setting the mechanical z stop as shown in the video above, and then leveling the bed. The bed is probably just too loose on the springs.

Calibrate your E-Steps

Calibrating your extruder steps/mm ensures accurate extrusion of filament and should only need to be done once. If you are changing to flexible filaments or something dramatically different from what you normally print, you may have to do it again.

Matterhackers E-Step Calibration - This guide pretty much has everything you need. Even with the Bowden tube disconnected you will need to heat the hot end up to at least 185 for the extruder motor to run.

This guide has a handy calculator at the end if you don't like to do your own math.

Also, check to make sure that your extruder is not crushing your filament. Crushed filament easily leads to clogs and jams. You can spot crushed by looking and seeing if the filament coming out of the end of the Bowden tube is flat with deep tooth marks. If it is, loosen the tension on the extruder spring. Some users report having to clip the spring to release tension because even the loosest setting causes the filament to get crushed.

First Test

Print out a nice 20x20 mm test cube.

As a starting point, PLA recommended temps are Extruder 200 / Bed 60

If the cube comes out "squished" or half-height, you will need to go into the printer settings on the control panel and adjust the Z-axis steps/mm from 400 to 800.

If the cube printed and stuck to the bed, continue on. If not, recheck the bed level and slicer settings. The print may not be pretty, but we're getting there.

Calibrate Flow

This should ideally be done every print or roll of filament, but really, just do it when you remember to.

Calibrating flow requires you to print a test cube in vase mode or spiralized outer contours mode.

This tutorial from Prusa is great.

Everything Else

PID Tuning - Requires sending G-code to the printer. This ensures proper temperature calibration for the hot end and bed.

Z-offset Calibration - Print 1 layer of a cube and stop the print. Measure the height of the layer and adjust the settings in your slicer or G-Code.

Temperature Towers PLA / PETG, Customizable- slice and ensure that the temperatures will change at the specified layers. The idea is to see what temperature produces the cleanest results. Print for each type/manufacturer of filament (every roll if you want real precision).

Stringing Tests - use this to calibrate your retraction distance and speed in your slicer. Higher retraction distances and speeds will reduce stringing but may introduce under-extrusion as the filament has further to travel back out the extruder again.

Upgrades:

Generally, I don't advocate for many upgrades. And any upgrades should be done one at a time to ensure that you properly calibrate each upgrade.

You will hear everyone try to explain why their upgraded board is essential or their linear rails are a must-have, but really, just start printing first and then see what upgrades you need. A 32-bit board won't solve any basic problems, and direct drive extruders are a tradeoff.

Must do upgrade: print the Ender 5 bed strain relief.Best free upgrade: manual mesh levelingGood to have at some point: Bed Supports - Super Struts (Yes, PLA is ok, just use 4-5 shells/perimeters for strength, and you can always re-print them if they crack. Don't fret over PETG)

Paid upgrades I would recommend at some point:

Creality glass print bedCreality Silent Board (Ender 5 non-pro)Metal Extruder

Optional but great:

Raspberry Pi running Octoprint / Astroprint / Repetier-Server or any other printer hostWebcam to monitor your prints remotely

After a week of trying to get the SKR mini E3 board to work on my Ender 5, I finally found the firmaware posted here. Compiled it and so far so good! The only thing that is missing is getting my BLTouch 3.1 to work with the SKR mini E3 board v 1.2 and Merlin. I can't seem to find the proper way to do this on the Ender 5 with this board. Can anyone help?

Thanks!

Now, I am trying to install the BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0, TFT35 Touch screen, BLTouch 3 and the BTT filament runout sensor and I am having tons of problems. I was hoping someone might have the config files they would share so I can at least compare them to mine to see what I am doing wrong.

I have done this for the silent board upgrade I did and then again for the bltouch (went with th3d firmware for this one) and when doing the new board I can get it to work with the board, screen and bltouch but when I add in the filament sensor it just goes back to square one it seems. I have followed guides and checked to make sure the filament sensor items were uncommented and set properly but when I give it to the printer it just doesnt work.

Anyway. If someone has the firmware for the Ender 5 with these options I would really appreciate taking a look at it. I am at my wits end with trying to now use vscode instead of arduino plus this just not working for me....i need to take a break lol

DISCLAIMER: This kit is designed for someone who is capable of DIY electronics, and requires some basic soldering skills as well as know-how to put things together and 3D print with PETG material on some pieces. Anyway, let's get started with our kit details. First, let's get the materials out of the way.

What's needed to install Capacitive Auto Bed Leveling on Ender 5?

• 24v Capable Capacitive Sensor (12mm to use EZABL mounts) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844237591.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.53b34c4dtO0x69 $4.99
• 1 Channel Optocoupler (12v will need modified for 24v) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32923200042.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.53b34c4dtO0x69 $0.89
• HeroMe Gen5 Base and Cooling System for your printer. We recommend upgrading to 5015 fan and single duct. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970
• HeroMe Gen5 EZABL Mount (Pick one from list under EZABL 18mm) & Spacer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4463378
• Optocoupler Case https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2817153
• Firmware (Look on website for the proper firmware for your board, or ask on our forums; TH3D is easiest for stock boards and my custom firmware for SKR Mini E3 will work)
• Arduino Uno + Dupont Cables to burn boot loader on stock boards, see this post: https://print3d.world/how-to-burn-a-boot-loader-on-an-ender-5-and-upgrade-firmware/
• Soldering Iron
• 4.7k Ohm Resistor
• Wire for power and ground leads (20-22awg Silicone wire is recommended)

Preparing your Ender 5 for Auto Bed Leveling

If you have a stock Ender 5 main board, we recommend using the TH3D Firmware and enable the EZABL support. A bootloader is required on the stock board; visit the link provided above for the how-to burn a boot loader and upgrade firmware. You will need to use the offsets that are listed in the HeroMe Gen5 PDF file for the mount that you used.

If you have a SKR Mini E3 main board, we recommend using our custom firmware which is already enabled for EZABL and it has the proper offsets for the EZABL_No_Duct_12mm mount. You will need to adjust offsets for your mount. Download the firmware with the link below, and use VSCode with PlatformIO plugin to customize it. Visit the forums for more information on how-to setup VSCode and PlatformIO; and don't be afraid to ask us questions there!

Prepare your Auto Bed Leveling Kit

Once all of your parts arrive, it's time to start preparing for installation. The first task you have to perform is to modify the 12v Optocoupler into a 24v Optocoupler by removing the current resistor at R1, and replacing it with a 4.7k Ohm resistor. This is quite simple, we recommend just snipping the old resistor at the base of the PCB and while holding your soldering iron to the pads push the new ones through the holes which will remove the old leads.

After you have modified the Optocoupler with the new 4.7k ohm resistor, it's time to wire it up. We will attach the capacitive sensor leads as shown in the diagram below, two wires will need to be used here which will terminate on the stock Ender 5 power supply. You will also need to decide if you are going to use dupont cables or cut and solder onto your Z endstop wires. Attach everything as shown. (Photo by LetsPrint3D.net)

You will need to get the V+ and V- power from the PSU on the right side of the printer. It has a few screws to remove, and open the bottom cover to get to them. The screws to the left of the RED + BLACK wires that go out through the bottom of the cover will give you 24V DC to power your sensor with. I recommend crimping some spade terminals on the end of the wire that will attach to the PSU so they are secured in the screw clamps.

Once you have your Octocoupler wired up, I suggest using a Digital Multimeter (DMM) on the Sensor Output pins. I always take the Capacitive sensor and manually trigger it; Once it triggers you should see the light on the octocoupler light up, and the voltage on the sensor output pins go to 0v. When you pull the sensor away from trigger, it should increase voltage (but never exceed 5v) and switch back and forth as you re-trigger it. Do this a few times to verify you won't fry the board.

Installing the ABL Sensor and Verifying Operation

Now that everything is wired up and ready, let's go ahead and install the mount onto the HeroMe Gen5 gantry plate by first threading some bolts through the mount, and then run them through the spacer that you printed. This will prevent the mount from hitting the belt, as it interferes with the mount due to how it attaches to the gantry. Then thread the screws into the gantry plate (your nuts should be in place already) and install the ABL sensor into the mount. You want to get the sensor within 5mm from the bed when the nozzle is touching it, you will adjust sensitivty later.

After everything is put together and zip-tied up; it's time to test and verify that it's working!

The next step you want to do is to check if the endstop is properly being recognized by your
board.
Make sure you have your Z endstop wire connected with the jumper wires.
DO NOT HOME YOUR Z UNTIL YOU VERIFY THAT THE FIRMWARE IS SEEING THE SENSOR CORRECTLY
Start by moving the Z up until the light on the sensor and the octocoupler turn off.
Next, connect to your printer over your preferred slicer (or Octoprint) and issue an M119 and
see if the Z_min is showing TRIGGERED or open.
If it shows open place your finger or an object under the sensor so the light comes ON and then
issue M119 again. If it shows TRIGGERED then proceed to setting your sensor sensitivity.
If it does not then reverse the 2 endstop wires.

Next you will need to adjust the sensitivity of the sensor, so you should set your nozzle and temps to the highest you will use while printing. You will run your Z axis all the way down until the nozzle is just touching the bed; Then use your MOVE AXIS option in the PREPARE menu of your printed LCD to move the axis up 2mm. This is the position you want the sensor to trigger, and if the LED is not lit up on the octocoupler and sensor, use a small flat head screwdriver to adjust the sensitivity screw on the sensor clockwise until it lights up.

Do NOT change the sensitivity if you are getting different heights between prints due to
temperature changes. This should be handled by the ZOffset and/or BabyStepping the Z
height. Under normal conditions at most you should only have to occasionally Babystep
about 0.1-0.2mm. If you are getting more than that please contact our support to go through
more advanced troubleshooting steps. Large babystep changes are usually related to a
physical machine issue if M48 is returning a consistent reading under 0.01mm.

Lastly, you will need to setup your Z Offset; Some people just do this on the LCD screen and choose to "Store Settings" after they have. You will usually have to babystep for the first layer on almost every print. See the section below from TH3D.

I HIGHLY recommend you watch the video as it is much easier to see what to do. Here is a video
on how to set the Z Offset: http://EZABLVideo.TH3DStudio.com
Now that we have the sensor installed and calibrated you need to set your Z Offset. This is the
distance the printer needs to move the head down to place it on the bed after the sensor
triggers.
To set your Z Offset heat the bed to your normal print temp and do a G28 to home the sensor.
Your EZABL™ sensor should be in the middle of the bed. Let it sit there for 5 minutes after the
bed has reached its target printer temperature. After homing the Z will show 5mm. This is NOT
included in the ZOffset. Move Z down 5mm before proceeding.
What you will do now is grab a sheet of standard paper and then move the nozzle down by
0.1mm until it just grabs the paper. Once you do that you can look at your printer LCD and note
the number that the Z shows. This will be a negative number. That is what your Z Offset is.

Thanks to TH3D and LetsPrint3D.net for doing most of the hard work, we just wanted to apply our own remix to the ABL scene! As always, have questions or problems leave us a comment and we will help you to the best of our ability! Once it's all done.. hit the print button and enjoy results!

1. PID Tune to your filament temperature. You should already know which type of filament you are going to tune your PID for; generally it's PLA and we choose to use 200 degrees as a start point.
2. Find what your current settings are at. Open the console program, and send the Gcode command "M503". You’ll see a section PID Settings with a P, I and D set of values: M301 PXX.XX IX.XX DXX.XX Note these down somewhere incase you wish to revert back!
3. Start your PID auto tune command by sending the following GCode: "M303 E0 S200 C3"          (M= Pid command E= Extruder S= Target Temp C= Cycles) So you are telling the printer to autotune the hot end to 200 degrees and cycle it 3 times to average out. New values will be spit out once it's completed.
4. Our new values will show up something like this: PID Autotune finished! Put the last Kp, Ki and Kd constants from below into Configuration.h
   #define DEFAULT_Kp 28.32
   #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.94
   #define DEFAULT_Kd 68.12
5. Now let's write and send a GCode to write these values to EEPPROM: M301 P28.32 I2.94 D68.12
6. Follow that up with a M500 to save values, and an M503 to verify the parameters. That's it! You can PID tune for different materials as well by changing your auto tune temperature.