Not only can you improve the build time by using heat inserts, you will have better strength and rigidity by locking the parts together via inserts. The parts must be designed to use these inserts, but once done so you can easily remove and re-install parts without the concern of lost hex nuts.

I wanted to start a discussion on here about this, and hope to hear anyone's view and opinion on why or why-not would you choose Heat Inserts over Hex Nuts? It's a great way to hear any negative views we have not yet encountered.

This configuration bundle is centered around the following printer configuration:

• V-Core 3 300mm
• Orbiter 1.5 Extruder
• Rapido HF Hot-End
• Dual 5015 EVA Fan Mod
• ADXL Tuned Input Shaping
• Linear Advance Tuned Properly

You will also find some Ender 3, and Ender 5 configurations in this bundle. Up to you if you wish to use them, or not. I recommend backing up your configuration bundle before importing mine, and this is simply a guideline to get started tuning your own printer. What works for me, may not work for you!

Be very careful with TPU on PEI build sheets, if it sticks too well it will rip up your PEI.

Backing Plate: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5212061

Simply print out the backing plate x2 for the 300mm, and install it into the rear of the front extrusion. Run your wires from a Spare Hot-End connection on your board, or other dedicated 24v port. Cut the LED strip to size at the proper point, and attach it to the backing plate. PROFIT! Oh, and we share some Macros we found online below for your config. One you add these macros, add the LED_PCT_PRINT to your START_PRINT macro, and LED_OFF to your END_PRINT macro and you are good to go.

NOTE: CHANGE THE PIN TO THE PIN YOU ARE USING! WE ARE USING HE1 ON OCTOPUS 1.1 (HOT-END #2)

pin: PA3
pwm: true
shutdown_value: 0
cycle_time: 0.0002


gcode:
  SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=1

gcode:
  SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0.06

gcode:
  SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0.4

gcode:
  SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0

I found that the current settings were just not spot-on for my build, and I adjusted them slightly. The following code was modified in the "sensorless-homing-tmc2209.cfg" found in the main config directory. Give it a try, and let me know if it helped you out.

The latest RatOS configuration in GitHub would simply not work at all for me, and I had to revert to the old config you see below.

# WARNING. DO NOT EDIT THIS FILE.
# To override settings from this file, you can copy and paste the relevant
# sections into your printer.cfg and change it there.

# BEWARE, this doesn't work if you've bent the DIAG pins on your x / y steppers.


endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_x:virtual_endstop
position_min: -12
position_endstop: -12


endstop_pin: tmc2209_stepper_y:virtual_endstop
position_min: -12
position_endstop: -5


diag_pin: x_diag_pin
driver_SGTHRS: 70 # Stall guard threshold, this is your X sensitivity, to adjust, copy this section and override it in printer.cfg.


diag_pin: y_diag_pin
driver_SGTHRS: 70 # Stall guard threshold, this is your Y sensitivity, to adjust, copy this section and override it in printer.cfg.


set_position_z: 5
gcode:
    M400                  # Wait for moves to finish
    G90                   # Absolute positioning
    G0 Z10 F600           # Hop Z-Axis
    M204 S1000            # Set homing acceleration (important!)

    # Home Y
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT=0.6 HOLDCURRENT=0.6
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT=0.6 HOLDCURRENT=0.6
    G28 Y
    G0 Y{printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y / 2} F9000

    # Home X
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT=0.5 HOLDCURRENT=0.5
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT=0.5 HOLDCURRENT=0.5
    G28 X

    G0 X{printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x / 2} F9000
 
    # Restore current
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={printer.configfile.config.run_current} HOLDCURRENT={printer.configfile.config.hold_current}
    SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={printer.configfile.config.run_current} HOLDCURRENT={printer.configfile.config.hold_current}

	G0 X{printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.x / 2} Y{printer.toolhead.axis_maximum.y / 2} F3000
	
    # Rehome Z
    G28 Z
    
    # Safe Z
    G0 Z10 F600
    

General Change Goals

• improve printability especially for ABS.
• printed parts to require no treatment after printing.
• screw insertion to never require force

Common Changes

• Low layer chamfers changed from 45degrees to 63degrees.
• Screw Hole diameter increased to be 0.5mm larger than Metric size.
• Overhanging hole layer manipulation.

You can see more about my changes and mods to the V-Core 3 on youtube: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWL37f39O8e8akqQdy8Pjt2n6UtyTdXjF

https://github.com/AdamV3D/V-Core-3-Vector3DEdition

https://print3d.world/bfd_download/adamv3ds-modified-v-core-3-printed-part-files/

Not only that, but the EVA carriage system is just state of the art. I have started exchanging my Hero Me hot-end systems for EVA on every printer I own, this makes it super simple to move system from printer to printer if I really want to. Bottom line, this thing rocks! Let's start bringing some RatRig guys into this forum and talking about stuff.

If you guys know us, we like to make our own custom firmware for each printer we own. I have decided to try Marlin as well as Klipper for this V-Core 3 build and both will be published here on our website.

As of today we are just putting together the frame, and ordering parts here and there. I am going to begin frame building soon.