If there is no mods available in the contrib section, you should consider modifying the parts to fit your printer and share it with the community! It’s super easy to make adjustments, because the team offers free STEP downloads via the website. This is an awesome design that basically fits all widely used parts, but also offers you an option to customize as you see fit.

EVA is super versatile, and can work with most all of the popular hot-ends.

• Nova
• Rapido
• DragonFly BMO
• Mosquito
• Copperhead
• Dragon
• V6

EVA also supports all the most popular 3D Printer extruders.

• LGX Lite
• Sherpa Mini
• Orbiter 2.0
• Orbiter 1.5
• LGX
• BMG
• BMG-M
• Titan
• Bowden
• Hemera
• Aero

The EVA carriage platform is super easy to print, requires no supports and uses the “hole poke” method of creating clean, and precise holes. We have printed two carriages and are currently working on our third. Every printer in the shop will be EVA and linear rail based soon, which allows us to simply swap parts whenever we wish. Paired up with our new “easy-connect” board we are working on, it’s a simple plug and a few bolts to swap an entire assembly.

The post EVA Carriage Platform for 3D Printing appeared first on Print 3D World.

After looking at the prices of a new hot-end for this printer, I decided to modify it for him. We are still working on this modification but have decided to start our guide. We purchased the V6 clone hot-end from Ali-express via Triangle Labs. The parts required include some printed ABS pieces, so if this is your first printer and you need them to make them for you please contact us and we can help. It is required to convert the old-style hot-end to the E3D and retain the stock extruder. You can also opt to upgrade to the BMG style extruder, but that will be done at a later time.

Required Parts & Tools:

• E3D V6 or Clone Hot-End  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844028127.html
• Already upgrade to aftermarket control board such as Makerbase MKS V1.3 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32384368763.html
• Soldering Iron, or crimping tools to connect wiring
• Electronics knowledge
• Cut-off tool and files to modify old hot-end
• ABS printed Hot-End conversion/adapter https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1689321 (We used the conversion here)    – Alternatives: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1239945 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3204349
• Patience, lots of it.

Firmware

I will be the first to say this printer really kicked my butt. I began trying to upgrade marlin because I had no idea what the previous guy done. The firmware was so old, marlin wouldn’t output any information other than a random message. After upgrading marlin, I could not for the life of me figure out the proper steps/mm settings for the Z axis. I tried to use an engineering method by measuring the pitch of the Z screw, but something must be up in the bushing. Eventually I had to resort to using a caliper and measuring the travel, and finally got it close enough to make a distinguishable print. I will share my steps/mm and firmware, but I cannot guarantee this printer has not been modified. Every single version of firmware I found for this printer online, had different Z axis steps. I cannot explain why, or begin to reason how; but nobody had the same X,Y or Z steps in the firmware shared online from similar modifications. I have attached my firmware to this post, you will need to read our other blog posts or ask on the forum for support uploading. It may require some tweaking for your specific parts. As stated I am unsure what this one had done to it prior to coming to my shop.

Converting to E3D Hot-End

This guide is not going to go into great detail like my other guides, because this job is not for the beginner. If you have never messed with control boards, electronics and have several years under your belt in 3D printing I do not recommend taking this on alone. I almost told him to come pick this thing up, when fighting with the firmware. I found multiple JST plugs which had broken wires, cracked PLA home sensor mounts and more. We printed all new X and Y axis home switch mounts via the links above. Don’t forget to build your E3D V6 Hot End according to specifications! Follow this link to see the manual! https://wiki.e3d-online.com/E3D-v6_Assembly

If you have already converted your CubeX Duo to an aftermarket control board; You will simply need to print out the adapter piece we linked to above. Make sure you use a high-temp resistant material such as ABS or Nylon, maybe even PETG. Then you will take the old hot-end off the printer and cut the top piece which fits into the extruder off. I used a air powered cut-off tool, and then filed down the remaining aluminum until flat as shown below. Once you have cut and sanded your adapter down, test fit several times and ensure it is snug. Do take your time while doing this, as once you take too much material you end up with slop in these parts. Any type of slop or play inside of this adapter, and you will need to try another method. As it may eventually lead to filament feeding issues down the line. I used an M3 tap and M3 screws to keep the adapter tight.

When you remove the old hot-end you had to remove the extruder on top, and loosen the torx screw which holds the hot-end in place. Now that it’s time to re-install the hot-end, make sure you followed the instructions and prepared your E3D V6 hot-end. I recommend placing the hot-end and adapter together, having all the wiring in the hot-end. Then you will simply slide the hot-end into the hole from underneath the carriage, mating it with the extruder by lining up the nub and twisting counter-clockwise. Then snug down your extruder screw (the vertical one) and proceed to hold the hot-end firmly into the extruder, and re-tighten the torx screw which holds it in place.

Now you will need to perform all of the wiring, it will require customized steps depending on how you upgraded your control board. The heater, and thermocouple connections are up to you; then ensure the correct one is chosen in firmware. The firmware we are providing is already setup for the hot-end above, but you may need to make adjustment’s if you purchase a different kit. The thermocouple, and the e-steps may need some tweaking for your printer. Once you have the firmware uploaded and ready; it’s able to print without spending 100$+ on hard to find, rare hot-ends! I will continue to edit this as I have more information and photos, please don’t be afraid to ask questions as I will help with your conversion if I can.

The post GUIDE: Upgrade and Modify the CubeX Duo to use V6 Style Hot-end appeared first on Print 3D World.

NOTE: I am using the HeroMe Gen5 system with TH3D Tough Hot-End! You can still upgrade your fan, but likely not with the stock mounts. Any HeroMe and many other custom mounts will be fine though! Make sure your fan is on the exterior of the mount like in my photo before attempting this upgrade.

What’s needed?

• Red and Black Wire (I recommend silicone wire as it’s flexible, 22AWG is good.)
• LM2596 Step-Down Power Converter (To convert to 12v)
• Noctua Fan (I chose the NF-A4x20 which is 40x20mm instead of stock 40x10mm) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6
• Zip Ties, and assorted hardware for your hot-end mounting system (add +12mm to your existing hardware for correct length, or attach on inside of the fan as seen in my photo)
• Digital Multimeter
• OPTIONAL: 3D Printed fan cover

First you will need to unplug your printer, and move it somewhere you can easily access the bottom panel. You should remove the mains power plug to ensure you are working safely. Then remove the 4 screws from the bottom access panel. Once you have done this, you will find your power supply inside. You will need to strip your red and black wires, and attach them to your PSU as shown below. The red lead will go to the V+ ports. The black lead will go to the V- ports. Obviously most people know that red is usually positive, and black is your ground.

Now you should route your new power wiring out the hole in the frame, and attach the other ends to your LM2596 buck converter. We will then use the screw terminals or solder pads to attach our power leads to the converter. The red lead will go to your positive IN, and the black lead should go to ground IN. I opted for the solder pads, and made my input connections first.

STOP: This is where we check and set the output of your converter, do not attach the fan leads until you have verified the 12v output. 

Ensure that your converter is placed where it will not short out on the metal casing. You will now re-attach your bottom cover, and apply the mains power back. Turn on the power supply with your switch. Then using your digital multimeter in DC voltage mode; check the voltage output. Use your small flat head screwdriver supplied with your printer to adjust the tiny screw on the blue potentiometer. Adjust until you get 12v output, and then remove power once again.

Once you have verified the 12v output on your LM2596, it’s time to attach the fan to the hot-end. Then you will route your wiring down to the location you plan to store the LM2596. Attach your wiring, route it how you like and fire it up! You have successfully upgraded your fan to a Noctua silent version. 3D Print yourself a fan cover, and start printing! If you have more questions or need support, leave a post on the forums over at https://print3d.world/community

The post GUIDE: Silent Noctua Hot End Fan Upgrade for Ender 5 appeared first on Print 3D World.

Budget $150 to $300

#1 Creality Ender 3

Our #1 pick is the Ender 3 in this budget range. You can’t seem to go wrong with these printers, with the majority of them working straight out the box. We personally have several Ender 3’s which run nearly constantly on our print farm. It’s got decent build space, at 235mm by 235mm by 250mm in the Z axis. This is plenty of room for most beginners looking to get their first experience in 3D printing. Another major bonus with this 3D printer is that many of them have been sold, which means there are tons of online resources for support and upgrades. Websites such as Thingiverse have pages upon pages of 3D printable upgrades. Many manufacturers like TH3D have taken to manufacturing upgraded components to bring these printers to the next level. Overall you cannot go wrong at an average price of around 180$ via the Creality3D store.

Ender 3 Specs

• Technology: FDM
• Print Area: 220 x 220 x 250mm
• Nozzle: 0.4mm
• Filament: 1.75mm PLA, ABS, TPU
• Max. Print Speed: 200mm/s
• Max. Layer Resolution: 0.1mm
• Print Precision: +/-0.1mm
• Heated Bed: Yes
• Connectivity: SD Card, USB
• LCD Screen: Yes

#2 Creality Ender 3 Pro

Our #2 pick is the upgraded version of the Ender 3. It’s got several upgrades for only $209 USD. Creality Ender 3 Pro is an upgraded version of Ender-3, it comes with the Meanwell power supply and new build plate sticker, also they claim to have redesigned the aluminum extrusion. The Ender 3 Pro boasts the same outstanding performance as the Ender-3, upgraded components make Creality Ender 3 Pro more stable, durable. You can also buy it at the Creality3D store.

Ender 3 Pro Specs

• Print volume: 220 x 220 x 250mm
• Nozzle: Single 0.4mm
• Filament: 1.75mm
• Heated bed temperature: 110℃
• Max. print speed: 180 mm/s
• Layer resolution: 0.1 – 0.4mm (100-400 microns)
• Connectivity: SD card reader
• LCD screen: Yes
• Print precision: +/- 0.1mm
• Packing type: Unassembled kit

Budget $300 – $1000

#1 Creality Ender 5

The number one pick on the higher budget is our favorite printer out of the whole lot. This Ender 5 is made with a box style frame with four vertical extrusions which severely improve the rigidity of the printers. Another important note is that the bed is the Z axis here (vertical movement only), unlike the Ender 3 where it has to move back and forth. There are several versions available and they routinely come available on eBay for as low as 200$ “Open Box” which I have scored several times. The Ender 5 Pro is available on Creality3D website for $382 which is still a great deal, although coupon codes are routinely found via Slickdeals. The Ender 5 pro will come equipped with the Silent mainboard that many people spend an extra 50$ to perform! It’s really a neccesity if you are planning to use these printers somewhere you have to listen to them. If you can find the right deal, and your budget allows it I suggest this printer be your first purchase. I have modified my Ender 5 quite heavily. It’s now the most stable and efficient printer in my fleet. Buy it at the Creality3D store.

Ender 5 Specs

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

• Brand: Creality
• Model: Ender 5
• Assembly: pre-assembled

PRINTING PROPERTIES

• Build volume: 220 x 220 x 300 mm
• Min. Layer Height: 0.05 mm
• Frame: Aluminum
• Nozzle Quantity: One
• Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
• Max. print temperature: 260℃
• Nozzle diameter: 1.75 mm
• Connectivity: SD Card, USB
• XY-axis positioning accuracy: n/a
• Z-axis positioning accuracy: n/a
• Voltage: 100-240V

PHYSICAL DIMENSIONS & WEIGHT

• Product weight: 11 kg
• Package weight: 12 kg
• Product size: 400 x 380 x 400 mm
• Package size: 500 x 500 x 420 mm

#2 Creality CR-6SE

Our second pick for the higher budget printers is for the CR-6SE. This 3D printer is more expensive than the Ender 3; but for a good reason. It’s got the same build platform, but it comes with much more upgraded options. If you plan to 3D print things that are small such as mini figurines, this printer is a good choice. Out of the box it’s equipped with an upgraded mainboard. It is silent, has auto bed leveling, Carborundum glass build platform, filament sensors, modular nozzle, HD color touch screen, dual Z-axis and more! It’s well worth the money if you have the budget to afford it. You will end up wanting all of these upgrades on your printer anyway. It’s basically a Prusa clone for several hundred less! Best place to buy is at Banggood.

CR-6SE Specs

• Single extruder, 1.75mm filament device
• Minimum layer size of 0.1mm
• Build volume of 235 x 235 x 250 mm
• Hot end maximum temperature of 260C
• Print speed 80-100mm/s
• 110mm color touchscreen for control, English and Chinese language interfaces provided
• Heated print surface, up to 110C
• 350W power supply
• Modular nozzles for straightforward swapping
• Easy assembly, Creality says it can be completed in only five minutes

#3 Creality CR-10v2

Our final pick is a printer that we have just begun to research. It’s Creality’s newer version of the CR-10 platform, which is what started the whole enterprise for them. This is one of the larger build volumes that you can get for this price point, at 300mm by 300mm by 400m in the Z axis. It also comes equipped with the silent mainboard, an all-metal direct drive extruder, Meanwell power supply, and filament sensors. There are also upgrade options for BLTouch auto bed leveling to be added. It’s a great design for a cheap price, you get more room to design larger prints. Buy it for $452 at Creality3D store.

CR-10v2 Specs

GENERAL SPECS

• Technology: FDM
• Year: 2019
• Assembly: Assembled
• Mechanical arrangement: Cartesian-XZ-head
• Manufacturer: Creality

3D PRINTING PROPERTIES

• Build volume: 300 x 300 x 400 mm 
• Feeder system: Bowden
• Print head: Single nozzle
• Nozzle size: 0.4 mm
• Max. hot end temperature: 260 °C
• Max. heated bed temperature: 100 °C
• Print bed material: Carborundum glass platform
• Frame: Metal
• Bed leveling: Automatic and manual
• Connectivity: SD card
• Print recovery: Yes
• Filament sensor: Yes
• Camera: No

MATERIALS:

• Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
• Third-party filament: Yes
• Filament materials: Consumer materials (PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU)

SOFTWARE:

• Recommended Slicer: Cura, Simplify3D
• Operating system: Windows (XP or higher), MacOSX, Linux
• File types: STL, OBJ, AMF

DIMENSIONS AND WEIGHT:

• Frame dimensions: 420 x 550 x 650 mm
• Weight: 11.5 kg

The post GUIDE: Which Creality 3D Printer Should I Purchase? appeared first on Print 3D World.

If you have a large cooling duct and need to reduce home position there is another slot for you. If you wish to maximize the space use opposite end.

The post Reclaim Lost X Axis Build Area on Ender 5 – Adjustable X Endstop appeared first on Print 3D World.

Original Model by Sausage-Gravy @ https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3352422

If you have installed a BL Touch or done another ABL modification to your Ender 3, you probably have a spare micro switch from the Z axis laying around or disconnected. Why not re-purpose that switch into a Filament Run-out Sensor? It’s a simple 30 minute print, several cuts to a bowden tube and your ready to run! I have direct-drive on my Ender 3 using the SpeedDrive BMG model, so I simply put the runout sensor near my spool exit, and zip-tied it onto the frame.

When printing the part, make sure you support the cylinder that holds the bowden tube on the right side to ensure proper fit. If there are tolerance issues after printing, use some epoxy or hot glue to attach your bowden tubing into the model. Use two small sections of bowden tubing and insert it on both sides of the switch, mount it using the two OEM screws that held the switch onto the frame previously. Then you simply run some filament through the tube and into your extruder.

The wiring needs to be connected to a pin of your choice, and configured in the Marlin firmware or by using Octoprint plugin such as Filament Sensor Reloaded. If you need help with wiring/firmware please sign-up and make a support request on our forums.

The post Reuse Ender 3 CR10 Z End Stop into Filament Runout Sensor appeared first on Print 3D World.

Nonetheless we feel that the Ender 5 is THE place to start in 3D Printing. Even someone with experience in the 3D printing industry should consider this machine; for it’s rigid frame and excellent out of the box performance. With just a few simple upgrades for someone with moderate technical ability, you have a printer that rivals one that cost twice and even three times as much!

#1 BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 Mainboard

The BTT SKR Mini E3 mainboard is the very first upgrade that we performed to our Ender 5. It actually arrived the very next day that we received the printer, and we only spent a little over 24 hours on the stock board. There are many reasons behind this upgrade, and the biggest is the silent stepper drivers which also perform better in every other aspect. Not only this but it brings extra functionality such as NeoPixels, extra Z motor driver and pins (2.0), 32 bit processor, and integrated BL touch pins. YouTube Teaching Tech has called it the best value upgrade for the Ender 3, and we feel like that applies to the Ender 5 as well. The installation process is basically a direct drop-in for the Ender 5 and instructions are nearly identical. Check out his video over on YouTube at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtCz_-2zvZo

#2 Hero Me Gen 5 Base and Part Cooling Upgrade for Ender 5

This upgrade is one that I generally do on any printer I purchase that is using those measly little 4015 24v Fans that don’t barely blow any air. I always opt to upgrade to at least a single 5015 24v fan. I also use the HeroMe to use aftermarket hot-ends, my auto bed leveling sensor mount is based off of it also. This upgrade is a must-have, although there are other options out there as well for the part cooling fan and mounts; this one is a direct fit for my next mod in the list.

#3 PrinterMods.com Direct Drive Plate Conversion for Ender 5

I opted for the PrinterMods.com kit when looking around for Direct Drive conversion options. There are quite a few options out there, including chinese knock-offs and even some other US based companies selling them directly. This kit just seemed more “modular” to me, and they were also offering some linear rail kits which I planned to use in the future. Not only did everything seem modular and cross-compatible but my part cooling system was also a direct fit and had parts designed just for it! The kit overall was great, had good detailed instructions included with the package and every piece of hardware is included. It took literally all of 10 minutes to install this with the stock hot-end, and about the same with my modded gantry adapter for the HeroMe. It’s a must-have option for someone serious about 3D printing TPU or PETG without having issue with retraction on the Ender 5.

#4 PrinterMods.com Linear Rails Kits for the Ender 5 X & Y axis

That’s right, not only did we go with the PrinterMods MDD kit we also opted to use their Linear Rail adapters! We had used the printed linear rail adapters in the past, and something about anodized aluminum just appealed to me. The made in USA, great pricing and fast shipping was also something that was quite awesome; oh and their support is top notch! You must follow their instructions for how to install these rails, and use the linked videos on how to prepare them the right way. I tested the rails before and after prepping them, and you can tell a difference in how smooth they move. I am so glad to be rid of those stupid Creality rubber wheels and the eccentric nuts, these linear rails make this machine all the more rigid and sturdy.

#5 TH3D Tough Hot-End

The last part to our Top 5 is going to be something that we just suggest in general, which is an All Metal Hot-End upgrade. We chose TH3D because of the support that was thought to be included with their products, but I should have read through the fine print. This item is a “community support” based item, which means the support comes from the community on Discord or the forums not directly from TH3D. Initially I had some serious issues with this hot-end, even after tearing it down and rebuilding it to the E3D assembly instructions TWICE. I spent almost an entire day on this hot-end not wanting to give up on it being a part of this review, ultimately I decided to tear it apart and put the stock hot-end back on. While the hot-end was off the printer I decided to investigate why the hot-end had such bad stringing and why the amount of plastic coming from the nozzle seemed to be so much larger than my stock one. When pushing filament by hand at a normal PLA temperature, the strands of filament coming out of the nozzle were almost 1mm thick! It was way more than I had ever seen a “0.4mm” nozzle push out, even when forcing it by hand.

Later I decided to order some E3D genuine nozzles, and when it arrived I used strands of wire to test the nozzles. The nozzle I had installed from the TH3D kit was closer to a 0.55mm strand of wire, versus the E3D genuine was more like a 0.39mm. I was using different strands of wire and a digital caliper to perform these tests, and you could tell an obvious difference in the hole in the nozzles even though the TH3D was labeled as 0.4mm.

Once re-installing the TH3D tough hot-end and using the E3D genuine nozzle, the thing printed like a champ! I was glad to finally be able to use this hot-end without all the crazy stringing and extrusion problems. It has now found it’s home on our Ender 5 and we will continue to use the genuine nozzles. This upgrade is one that is not neccesary unless you plan to print more abrasive filaments, or run filaments such as ABS and PETG in large quantities. The stock hot-end has a PTFE lined heat break which will degrade over time and let off toxic fumes around your family and pets which can harm them, so don’t take it over 240* without installing an all metal hot-end. Overall I would say that I do recommend the TH3D tough hot-end for it’s super fast shipping, and great price compared to the original E3D; but make sure you buy some spare genuine nozzles and avoid the headaches I did! It may be fine, or you may end up with a problem!

Conclusion

We have shared our top 5 favorite mods for the Ender 5 with you; and we hope you will consider our suggestions when upgrading your own machine. These 5 upgrades are ones that will require a little bit of technical know-how and experience with wiring and installing mechanical parts. One good thing is that all of these kits and parts were installed without tools outside of the Ender 5’s own toolkit. We feel like the Mainboard, Linear Rails and Direct Drive upgrades are the most important and the ones that make the biggest impact on print quality and the sustainability of the printer. Our auto bed leveling ugprade isn’t included in this Top 5 because it’s not even considered a modification anymore to us, it’s a necessity! (Come on it’s 2020, we don’t have to eyeball an object to level it when you can buy 8$ Capacitive Proximity Sensors!!)

Have any questions or concerns on these upgrades? Sign up on our new forums and leave a post, we are always glad to help people with their 3D printers!

The post Top 5 Ender 5 Performance Upgrades appeared first on Print 3D World.

DISCLAIMER: This kit is designed for someone who is capable of DIY electronics, and requires some basic soldering skills as well as know-how to put things together and 3D print with PETG material on some pieces. Anyway, let’s get started with our kit details. First, let’s get the materials out of the way.

What’s needed to install Capacitive Auto Bed Leveling on Ender 5?

• 24v Capable Capacitive Sensor (12mm to use EZABL mounts) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32844237591.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.53b34c4dtO0x69 $4.99
• 1 Channel Optocoupler (12v will need modified for 24v) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32923200042.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.53b34c4dtO0x69 $0.89
• HeroMe Gen5 Base and Cooling System for your printer. We recommend upgrading to 5015 fan and single duct. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970
• HeroMe Gen5 EZABL Mount (Pick one from list under EZABL 18mm) & Spacer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4463378
• Optocoupler Case https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2817153
• Firmware (Look on website for the proper firmware for your board, or ask on our forums; TH3D is easiest for stock boards and my custom firmware for SKR Mini E3 will work)
• Arduino Uno + Dupont Cables to burn boot loader on stock boards, see this post: https://print3d.world/how-to-burn-a-boot-loader-on-an-ender-5-and-upgrade-firmware/
• Soldering Iron
• 4.7k Ohm Resistor
• Wire for power and ground leads (20-22awg Silicone wire is recommended)

Preparing your Ender 5 for Auto Bed Leveling

If you have a stock Ender 5 main board, we recommend using the TH3D Firmware and enable the EZABL support. A bootloader is required on the stock board; visit the link provided above for the how-to burn a boot loader and upgrade firmware. You will need to use the offsets that are listed in the HeroMe Gen5 PDF file for the mount that you used.

If you have a SKR Mini E3 main board, we recommend using our custom firmware which is already enabled for EZABL and it has the proper offsets for the EZABL_No_Duct_12mm mount. You will need to adjust offsets for your mount. Download the firmware with the link below, and use VSCode with PlatformIO plugin to customize it. Visit the forums for more information on how-to setup VSCode and PlatformIO; and don’t be afraid to ask us questions there!

Prepare your Auto Bed Leveling Kit

Once all of your parts arrive, it’s time to start preparing for installation. The first task you have to perform is to modify the 12v Optocoupler into a 24v Optocoupler by removing the current resistor at R1, and replacing it with a 4.7k Ohm resistor. This is quite simple, we recommend just snipping the old resistor at the base of the PCB and while holding your soldering iron to the pads push the new ones through the holes which will remove the old leads.

After you have modified the Optocoupler with the new 4.7k ohm resistor, it’s time to wire it up. We will attach the capacitive sensor leads as shown in the diagram below, two wires will need to be used here which will terminate on the stock Ender 5 power supply. You will also need to decide if you are going to use dupont cables or cut and solder onto your Z endstop wires. Attach everything as shown. (Photo by LetsPrint3D.net)

You will need to get the V+ and V- power from the PSU on the right side of the printer. It has a few screws to remove, and open the bottom cover to get to them. The screws to the left of the RED + BLACK wires that go out through the bottom of the cover will give you 24V DC to power your sensor with. I recommend crimping some spade terminals on the end of the wire that will attach to the PSU so they are secured in the screw clamps.

Once you have your Octocoupler wired up, I suggest using a Digital Multimeter (DMM) on the Sensor Output pins. I always take the Capacitive sensor and manually trigger it; Once it triggers you should see the light on the octocoupler light up, and the voltage on the sensor output pins go to 0v. When you pull the sensor away from trigger, it should increase voltage (but never exceed 5v) and switch back and forth as you re-trigger it. Do this a few times to verify you won’t fry the board.

Installing the ABL Sensor and Verifying Operation

Now that everything is wired up and ready, let’s go ahead and install the mount onto the HeroMe Gen5 gantry plate by first threading some bolts through the mount, and then run them through the spacer that you printed. This will prevent the mount from hitting the belt, as it interferes with the mount due to how it attaches to the gantry. Then thread the screws into the gantry plate (your nuts should be in place already) and install the ABL sensor into the mount. You want to get the sensor within 5mm from the bed when the nozzle is touching it, you will adjust sensitivty later.

After everything is put together and zip-tied up; it’s time to test and verify that it’s working!

The next step you want to do is to check if the endstop is properly being recognized by your
board.
Make sure you have your Z endstop wire connected with the jumper wires.
DO NOT HOME YOUR Z UNTIL YOU VERIFY THAT THE FIRMWARE IS SEEING THE SENSOR CORRECTLY
Start by moving the Z up until the light on the sensor and the octocoupler turn off.
Next, connect to your printer over your preferred slicer (or Octoprint) and issue an M119 and
see if the Z_min is showing TRIGGERED or open.
If it shows open place your finger or an object under the sensor so the light comes ON and then
issue M119 again. If it shows TRIGGERED then proceed to setting your sensor sensitivity.
If it does not then reverse the 2 endstop wires.

Next you will need to adjust the sensitivity of the sensor, so you should set your nozzle and temps to the highest you will use while printing. You will run your Z axis all the way down until the nozzle is just touching the bed; Then use your MOVE AXIS option in the PREPARE menu of your printed LCD to move the axis up 2mm. This is the position you want the sensor to trigger, and if the LED is not lit up on the octocoupler and sensor, use a small flat head screwdriver to adjust the sensitivity screw on the sensor clockwise until it lights up.

Do NOT change the sensitivity if you are getting different heights between prints due to
temperature changes. This should be handled by the ZOffset and/or BabyStepping the Z
height. Under normal conditions at most you should only have to occasionally Babystep
about 0.1-0.2mm. If you are getting more than that please contact our support to go through
more advanced troubleshooting steps. Large babystep changes are usually related to a
physical machine issue if M48 is returning a consistent reading under 0.01mm.

Lastly, you will need to setup your Z Offset; Some people just do this on the LCD screen and choose to “Store Settings” after they have. You will usually have to babystep for the first layer on almost every print. See the section below from TH3D.

I HIGHLY recommend you watch the video as it is much easier to see what to do. Here is a video
on how to set the Z Offset: http://EZABLVideo.TH3DStudio.com
Now that we have the sensor installed and calibrated you need to set your Z Offset. This is the
distance the printer needs to move the head down to place it on the bed after the sensor
triggers.
To set your Z Offset heat the bed to your normal print temp and do a G28 to home the sensor.
Your EZABL sensor should be in the middle of the bed. Let it sit there for 5 minutes after the
bed has reached its target printer temperature. After homing the Z will show 5mm. This is NOT
included in the ZOffset. Move Z down 5mm before proceeding.
What you will do now is grab a sheet of standard paper and then move the nozzle down by
0.1mm until it just grabs the paper. Once you do that you can look at your printer LCD and note
the number that the Z shows. This will be a negative number. That is what your Z Offset is.

Thanks to TH3D and LetsPrint3D.net for doing most of the hard work, we just wanted to apply our own remix to the ABL scene! As always, have questions or problems leave us a comment and we will help you to the best of our ability! Once it’s all done.. hit the print button and enjoy results!

The post Budget Friendly Auto Bed Leveling for Ender 5 3D Printer appeared first on Print 3D World.

I am including the firmware.bin files for both printers, but if you wish to modify the firmware and make any of your own changes you will need the software. Instead of using Arduino IDE we recommend downloading VSCode from here. Once you have installed VSCode, you will need to install the plug-in Platform IO. The full guide for setting up VSCode to compile marlin can be found at the Marlin website here.

Both firmware are ready to go, all you have to do is simply copy the firmware.bin that I have copied into the root folder onto a micro SD card. Once you have copied the firmware.bin file to your micro SD card, power off the printer and insert the SD card. Next time you power the printer up, the firmware will automatically flash. It will take several seconds to complete, the screen will flash and re-activate. Once you are done flashing firmware I recommend either sending a M500/M501 via Pronterface or visit the configuration menu and choose “Store Settings” and then click “Load Settings” to reload the EEProm.

Ender 3 Firmware BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3

I currently am providing firmware for the Ender 3 with my ABL probe already setup in it. It’s the capacitive style proximity sensor probe we show on our website, and it’s using the EZABL stock probe mount for ease. You will have to change the ABL settings or disable them depending on your application, and I can post another firmware later that does not have ABL enabled. I used a difference tool to compare my configuration with BigTreeTech’s Ender configuration files, and made the necessary changes. The only things I implemented additionally are baby stepping, and increasing the max acceleration values by 500.

(Updated Marlin 2.0 bug-fix on 7/13/2020)

What options are enabled for the Ender 3?

• Junction Deviation
• S-Curve Acceleration
• Thermal Runaway
• Baby-stepping Z Axis
• Linear Advance
• Auto Bed Leveling (Bi-Linear)
• Setup for an EZABL style Capacitive Proximity probe (Offsets and firmware for EZABL probe mount)
• Extra menu options for configuration
• Latest bugfix-2.0.x as of 7/13/2020

Ender 5 Firmware BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3

We are also uploading our firmware for the Ender 5 running a BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 1.2 board. It’s currently running great, and we are glad to upload this somewhere. It took quite awhile to find a good firmware that works well. The firmware I started with was from a Git hub page, but it was just simply outdated by several versions and the config files wouldn’t compile in the newest marlin. We are not running the ABL probe on our Ender 5 yet, as we are waiting on parts to arrive. There is only manual mesh bed leveling activated inside, and you will need VSCode to edit this firmware for your needs. If you have the older style Z Axis lead-screw and you install the stock marlin firmware from the BTT github, your prints will be 1/2 the height in the Z axis; therefore we have included the 400 steps/mm and 800 steps/mm firmware. If your Ender 5 shipped pre-December 2019 you likely have 400 steps/mm and anything newer will likely be 800 steps/mm.

What options are enabled for the Ender 5?

• Junction Deviation
• S-Curve Acceleration
• Thermal Runaway
• Baby-stepping Z Axis
• Mesh Bed Leveling (Manual Mesh)
• Extra menus for configuration
• Latest bugfix-2.0.x as of 7/13/2020

The post Latest Marlin Firmware for BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 Board on Ender 3 and Ender 5 appeared first on Print 3D World.

The problem is that many people think the Capricorn tube alone will fix all of their problems, and it won’t. If you cannot get your printer to run with the stock tube, a Capricorn tube will not fix it (unless you have a serious filament jam in it, LOL). The tube WILL improve your prints and make it so much easier to tune your retraction settings to a satisfactory result; especially when bundled with the Ender 3 Hot End Fix.

If you need more help with your Ender or other Creality Brand printer, please join our Facebook page and ask a question! I will be more than glad to help, and so would all the other guys. If you are ready, head on over to captubes.com or your favorite store and order your Capricorn tube. Then, once it has arrived read below to do the Creality Hot End Fix. This fix applies to multiple printers such as the Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5 Plus, CR10, CR20, and all other variants of Creality’s basic hot end. Other Creality products like CR10S PRO, CR10V2 will also work with different length of tube.

Download the file for the Hot End Fix, and then follow the instructions below. You will need the Capricorn tubing, and a sharp razor blade. Then you will print out the files that associate with your printer and make the cuts required to install. Then you will ENJOY this great upgrade that improves your retraction and print quality really easily! Please give the original creator a big THANK YOU for all of the work he has done for the community via Thingiverse.

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

CR-10S

Resolution:

.12

Infill:

100%

Filament: Tianse PLA Red

Notes:

The post Ender 3 Filament Feed Tube Upgrade with Capricorn and Hot End Fix appeared first on Print 3D World.