@knightrid
Definitely. You must have a pretty old Ender 5 that still let's the bed fall down when prints are done eh? I have worked on a few of those. Anyway, you can enable Babystepping that also adjusts the Z Offset in ADV Config under Babystepping. I use this for all my printers, once you set that way you save configuration and it's saved until your next firmware flash/modification.
Z offset with ABL isn't too bad imo. I also use the capacitive sensor instead of BLTouch, so for me it's as simple as homing, touching the bed, lifting up 2mm and setting the sensor to light up. Then setting my Z-Offset after another re-home; print.
Let me know if you have any other configuration settings, yours seem fine in my compare tool. I wasn't able to get the configuration via the pastebin site, so it didn't get compared yet.
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Plastic Process Engineering
Did I post it wrong to pastebin? Never did it before. I put it in code blocks on here too but it just says awaiting moderation.
I am actually starting to think the filament sensor is just bad. It just never triggers. At least I got everything else to work but I bought it so if I ran out of filament, got a jam, or whatever it would stop the print rather than printing nothing or causing other problems. I will have to look up online if there is a way to test the sensor to make sure it is good before pulling any more of my hair out.
I got my Ender 5 last November so it is one of the old ones 🙂 TH3D firmware I was using on the silent board stopped the bed from falling after printing which was nice. I think it just never sent a signal to disable the z stepper that way it didn't let it's guard down. I should have gotten a new screw I guess but even the bed dropping doesn't bother me too much, just takes more time when starting a print. Although I am the one that bitches at people doing too many upgrades to printers that are working fine and look at me....I learned my lesson, I was right, stock is good LOL
The live z offset is the biggest pain right now. I will have to try the babystepping. I hope that lets me print and adjust while I am watching so I can get it spot on.
@knightrid
Babystepping with Z offset will not only let you adjust on the fly; you can also save that setting for the next print that way. To test your filament sensor, you should be able to use a multimeter across the pins in OHMS mode and insert filament to see a change in continuity. The circuit should open/close when loading/unloading filament.
There have been posts about the sensor not working when the TFT is in touch mode.. I don't have a TFT35 yet, so I haven't tried to make it work. I will have to get one to do some further testing. I do have a filament sensor (not the BTT one, a DIY one I made) and it seems to work when I actually use it. I have it disabled right now.
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Plastic Process Engineering
Yea i was going to break out the multimeter when I get a chance. Trying to get leaves picked up from about 3.5 acres takes FOREVER lol
I took the filament sensor off and everything works except the cooling fan stays on after the print is done until I do something on the lcd - this is in Marlin mode too. Maybe a setting in the firmware, I dunno, haven't really looked to deep into it yet.
I was right - you can plug the sensor direct to the tft35. I tried that too and didn't work. Multimeter here I come.
@knightrid
My sensor is different from yours, unsure how they instructed you to enable it. I would suspect there are instructions for it somewhere when including a TFT35 also. I would look into that. I am glad the rest of your firmware is working now; if you need more help with tweaks we will be glad to help.
Also, you should look at your Start and Stop G-Code for the fans staying running. I believe I shared my codes here on the forum. Here is the link: https://print3d.world/community/ender-5/ender-5-start-gcode-stop-gcode/#post-18
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Plastic Process Engineering
Yep end gcode is the same - no clue why it wont stop the fan until I click the lcd. Just such a nightmare for an "upgrade". Nozzle started leaking and found out the threads are worn that it wont get snug so changing hotend too. Last upgrade...EVER LOL
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
G1 X0 Y0 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
@knightrid
Hmm, I feel your pain. I had some issues with a hotend also. I ended up buying the TH3D Tough hot-end for my printers but the nozzle was just not right. I had to wait for genuine E3D nozzles before I could use it
Turned out to be a not so great upgrade, until I used genuine E3D nozzles and aftermarket heatbreak. I do recommend that you go with a name brand setup such as E3D, Microswiss, or the Slice Engineering Mosquito is very nice one-stop hot-end also.
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Plastic Process Engineering
Sorry been busy!
So I figured while changing the hotend I would change the fans out since they are the stock ones from last November. I have 10 sets laying around I got as spares and put one in and realized they are 12V not 24V even though the package says 24V. They are genuine Creality too but since the return windows has passed I now have to wait for buck converters to try and get them working.
I now know why people say they left their printers sit for months or years because they got frustrated lol
Now for even more of a kick in the rearend - My order from Amazon that included the buck converters was damaged in shipping and they are going to refund the order in a few days. So now I had to re-order the stuff and with Amazon being SLOW even though I pay for Prime, I wont have anything till Monday.
Glad the weather is decent here in PA so I can at least smoke some cigars 😉
@knightrid
Geeze sounds like a headache. I ordered my buck converters the LM2598's from eBay in a set of 10 at minimum since I use them so often. I went Noctua on fans, made a big difference in noise. Plus I went 10mm thicker for hot-end fan to increase cooling in the cold zones.
Anyway glad your printing is getting back on track; if you need anything more let us know!
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Plastic Process Engineering