Are you interested in printing some stronger parts, but you don’t have an enclosure? Well I am here to tell you that it is definitely possible for many people; especially with heated beds that are over 600 watts and can reach 120*C easily and hold it. I talk about some ways to make your heated bed more efficient, and share my configuration bundle which contains my RatRig 300 SuperSlicer files and gives you an insight into how to print ASA parts without an enclosure. No warping, and amazing quality parts are still achievable with ASA!
ABS is much harder to print without an enclosure due to the shrinkage as you build layers up on top of each other. ASA tends to perform much better without an enclosure opposite of ABS, and I have printers that are enclosed as well that we actively compare them with. I do not even attempt most ABS parts without heated chambers or enclosures; although COEX filament’s ABS Prime has successfully made prints without enclosures.
The best way to print ASA without an enclosure is to simply increase bed temperature until it’s hot enough to keep the first layer near or right above the “glass transition temperature”. This will keep your ASA hot and sticky enough to stay planted throughout the print. ASA filament has a glass transition temperature of around 110*C, which allows us to run our bed temperatures up to 120*C and have good prints with no warping.
Download my SuperSlicer configuration bundle and give it a shot on your RatRig or Voron printers, let me know the results! Please do not attempt to reach temperatures over 75*C on your AC or DC powered bed heaters without proper inline thermal fuses! Also you should buy proper insulation for the bed plate, to keep your heater efficient and stable during prints. I recommend the following insulation for the 300mm RatRig bed plate:
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